|
Regardless of the fact that the definition of the necktie in
most dictionaries states "a large band of fabric worn around the neck under
the collar and tied in front with the ends hanging down as a decoration",
its history says a lot more. Men have always found it necessary to tie
something around their necks. The earliest historical example is in ancient
Egypt.
The rectangular piece of cloth that was tied and hung down till the
shoulders was a very important part of an Egyptian’s clothing because it was
showing his social status. In China, all the statues around the grave of
Emperor Shi Huang Ti bear a piece of cloth around their necks, which is
considered an ancestor of the modern necktie. In art from the Roman Empire,
men are also depicted bearing neckwear that much resembles the contemporary
necktie.
There is much written about the connection between the French
word cravat and the French word for Croatian -croat - to suggest that the
French King Louis XIV took up the fashion of neckerchiefs after seeing them
on victorious Croatian mercenaries during the Thirty Years' War.
In 1715, another kind of neckwear, called "Stocks" made
its appearance. Stocks were initially just a small piece of muslin folded
into a narrow band wound a few times round the shirt collar and secured from
behind with a pin. It was fashionable for the men to wear their hair long,
past shoulder length. The ends were tucked into a black silk bag worn at the
nape of the neck. This was known as the bag-wig hairstyle, and the neckwear
worn with it was the stock.
A variation of the bag wig would be the solitaire. This
form had matching ribbons stitched around the bag. After the stock was in
place, the ribbons would be brought forward and tied in a large bow in front
of the wearer.
Sometime in the late eighteenth century, cravats began to
make an appearance again. This can be attributed to a group of young men
called the macaronis. These were young Englishmen who returned from Europe
and brought with them new ideas about fashion from Italy. The French
contemporaries of the macaronis were the Inscrutable.
The necktie accepted a more simple and
universal shape in the 19th century. The custom was to wrap it once around
the neck and to loop it into a knot. Between 1890 and 1900 the neckties had
white, blue, red, yellow and green stripes on a black background. After the
First World War, the black background was replaced with more vivid colors,
which are still considered classic today. The modern necktie exists in its
present shape since 1924. Before, they were tailored in the direction of
cutting the cloth and the lining was made from various fabrics. In 1924,
Jessie Lansford from New York designed a cloth for neckties, cut on the 45°
bias and divided the necktie into three separate parts, which were then sewn
up. He patented this innovation and later sold his invention all over the
world.
Today most of the suits presented by the
most important designers are accompanied with ties , a must, to complement
the attire of a modern and elegant man. Very recently ties have reappeared
again in women's wardrobes and a period of growing use by women is expected
in the next few years. Tie collecting is spreading rapidly even if only
until recently it was the hobby of very few people.
|